E-10 Gas and Your Fuel System

Now that most markets have switched to gasoline with 10% ethanol, you need know how it will affect the fuel system in your vintage Alfa or Fiat. Your car will run perfectly fine on "E-10" gas, but if you’re not paying attention, trouble can arise. We've seen a rash of returned fuel pumps that are failing due to sediment in the gas tank being stirred up by the ethanol. Bosch is no doubt seeing this throughout the industry, and does not warranty pumps that contain foreign matter. Our failure rate is highest in Bosch-injected 1982-94 Alfa Romeo Spiders and 1980-85 Fiat Spiders. With Spica-injected Alfas, there's a filter before the main pump that seems to stop the most damaging debris from entering the pump.

So what does this mean to you? If your fuel pump fails, there is a high likelihood that it is related to sediment in your fuel tank. Before you replace the fuel pump, you'll want to check the condition of your tank. The easiest way to do this is to remove the gauge sender and look into the tank with a flashlight. If you see any floating sediment or visible rust inside the tank, you'll need to take care of that problem before installing the new fuel pump. The tank will need to be removed and cleaned out; something most radiator shops will be able to handle. For Alfa Spiders, check the condition of the in-tank sock while the sender is out. If the sock is at all questionable, you should go ahead and replace it. We sell the replacement, #16511. For Fiats, you can replicate the pre-pump filter that Spica-injected Alfas use. It's our #314201. Adding this filter can really help, but simply changing a filter is no substitute for cleaning out your tank!
Enjoying your car in the age of 10% ethanol fuel is just like anything else with cars of this age—preventative maintenance is the key. Taking good care of your car is the best way to make sure it'll be ready for those perfect driving days.

copyright 2008 by International Auto Parts

	25 Quick & Easy Alfa/Fiat Tasks:
	GENERAL SERVICE: Do a "mini safety inspection" (< 5 minutes). Check all turn signals, tail lights, brake lights (you may need a helper), side marker lights, headlights (bright & dim), license plate lights; make sure the brake, charging & oil pressure warning lights come on when you turn on the ignition; check that the horn & wipers work. Lubricate door, hood & trunk hinges (< 5 minutes). You can use a spray can of white lithium grease, available at any auto parts store. Wipe off any excess, so it doesn't get on clothing. Check tire tread depth & wear pattern (<5 minutes). You can use the old penny trick: insert a penny, Lincoln's head down, into the tire tread at various points. If at any point the top of his head isn't buried, you're down to 2/32" of tread, which is too low. Modern tires have wear bars that will become flush with the tread surface at about this depth, too. By the way, the top of Washington's head on a quarter is about 4/32", and the roof of the Lincoln Memorial is about 6/32", so coins can be a handy depth gauge. Rotate your tires (20 - 30 minutes). This is especially urgent if the treads are beginning to wear unevenly (see above), but you should tackle this chore on a regular schedule. Check your wiper blades (< 5 minutes). Inspect wiper blades for frayed edges, hardened rubber, or just replace them if they're more than a year old. (Alfa Spiders) Check convertible top drain hoses (< 5 minutes). Next time you wash your car, watch that water drains from opening in the rear of the rocker panels. See this Tech Tip for more information. If your car has a sunroof, check their drain hoses by pouring a small amount of water into each, and ensuring that the water disappears down the hoses. UNDERHOOD SERVICE: Visually inspect all belts & hoses (< 5 minutes). Look for cracking and bulging of water, fuel and vacuum hoses. Our theory is: it's easier to replace them in your garage or driveway than on the side of the road. Since "our" cars are all over 10 years old, any original vacuum hose is probably getting brittle. Belts have a habit of flying off at bad times, too, so check them. If your car has a timing belt (Alfa V6 or Fiat/Lancia), you should make sure it's not oil soaked, and be sure it's changed at the correct interval. Check brake & clutch master cylinder fluid levels (< 5 minutes). You can see the level through the translucent reservoirs. If you need to add some, use fresh brake fluid (brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, even if the bottle is sealed). Visually inspect your spark plug & coil wires (< 5 minutes). Any problem here can hurt power and mileage, and even damage your catalytic converter. (Hint: in total darkness, you can sometimes spot a damaged plug wire leaking sparks to ground.) If you want to investigate plug wires further, you can check the resistance with an ohm meter and compare against the specs in your workshop manual. Check your air filter (5-15 minutes). Remove it for inspection; if it's dirty, replace it or at least blow it out from the inside with compressed air. If you have a K&N filter, clean and re-oil lightly. Top up your windshield washer bottle (< 5 minutes). You may wish to check the "aim" of the squirters; they can typically be re-aimed using a needle or straight pin. Change your oil and filter (20 - 30 minutes). How long has it been? Do it soon. Clean oil/vapor separator (where applicable) (15 - 30 minutes). Consult your service manual for details. UNDER THE CAR: Do a visual inspection of the brake rotors, calipers & pads (15 - 30 minutes). Combine this with rotating your tires, and the incremental time is near zero. If you're like me and can't see up close as well as you once could, you may need a mirror to peer into the brake calipers to check pad thickness. I like to be sure the friction material on each pad is (at least) thicker than its backing plate. Check the rotors for scoring and minimum thickness. Look for signs of fluid leak from hoses and calipers. On Fiats, check that the angled caliper sliders are not corroded. One sign of this is the pads on that wheel are not wearing evenly. If you're in doubt about the age or condition of any brake component, it's wise to change it. Check shock absorbers and/or struts (15 - 30 minutes). While the car is jacked up, examine all shock absorbers for signs of leaking (be sure to secure it with jack stands). While you're at it, check each wheel for leaking grease seals, and, where applicable, check CV and steering rack boots. Then, with the car back on the ground, push down on each corner with all your weight; making sure the car rises back up on its suspension and settles down without multiple iterations. INSIDE THE CAR: Condition leather and vinyl components (15 minutes). We recommend AutoSport products to clean and condition leather and interior vinyl. Be sure you don't use a really shiny vinyl dressing on the top of your dashboard; the sun reflections will drive you nuts. Re-dye black trim (30 minutes). Use Forever Black on your rear spoiler (80's Alfa Spiders) or any other black plastic and vinyl. It may take 2 or 3 coats to achieve an even effect, but it makes a world of difference to your car's appearance. If you get it on paint, wipe it off immediately. Lube your door & trunk gaskets (< 5 minutes). Wipe AutoSport Interior Vinyl Protection on soft rubber seals to keep them flexible. Lube seat tracks (< 5 minutes). We just use white lithium grease, available at any auto parts house. Don't get it all over the carpets, and wipe off any excess. Clean the inside of your windows (15 minutes). What a difference it makes to get that film off the inside of all the glass. Don't forget the mirror. We recommend AutoSport Haze Free Glass Cleaner. International Auto Parts PO Box 9036, Charlottesville, VA 22906 international-auto.com - 800-953-0813

Reprinted from i Saluti, St. Louis AROC February 1998
from www.ngksparkplugs.com

NGK Fast Tech Tips for Street or Strip Vehicles

Installing spark plugs

Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs’ ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind.

An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the metal shell which in turn can distort the spark plug’s inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug’s insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur.

The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise. Of course, you should only install spark plugs in a cool engine, because metal expands when its hot and installation may prove difficult.

Proper torque specs for aluminum and cast iron cylinder heads are as follows:

Recommended Tightening Torques

   Spark plug type         Aluminum            Cast iron
   (thread diameter)       cylinder head       cylinder head
   Flat seat type 18 mm    25.3 - 32.5 lb-ft   25.3 - 32.5 lb-ft
   (with gasket)  14 mm    18.0 - 21.6         18.0 - 25.3
                  12 mm    10.8 - 14.5         10.8 - 18.0

   Conical seat   18 mm    14.5 - 21.6 lb-ft   14.5 - 21.6 lb-ft
   (no gasket)    14 mm     7.2 - 14.5         10.8 - 18.0

Gapping

Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug’s tip temperature and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While spark plugs come pre-gapped from the factory, the gap must be adjusted for the specific vehicle the spark plug is installed in.

Also, those with modified engines must remember that an engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap setting (to ensure ignitability in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.

A spark plug’s voltage requirement is directly proportional to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage needed to bridge the gap. Experienced tuners know that a stronger spark maximizes burn efficiency. For this reason, most racers add high-power ignition systems. This added power allows them to enlarge the gap, yet still provide a strong spark. Many think the larger the gap the better and, in fact, some makers of aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate extremely wide gaps. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think.

[Generally, Alfas use a gap of 0.030" if fitted with an electronic ignition and 0.025" with standard ignition. Ed.]

Heat Range selection

Let’s make this really simple: when you need your engine to run a little cooler, run a colder plug. When you need your engine to run a little hotter, run a hotter plug. However, NGK strongly cautions people that going to a hotter spark plug can sometimes mask a serious symptom of another problem that can lead to engine damage. Be very careful with heat ranges--seek professional guidance if you are unsure. 

With modified engines (those engines that have increased their compression), more heat is a by-product of the added power that normally comes with increased compression.

In short, select one heat range colder for every 75-100 hp you add, or when you significantly raise compression. Also remember to retard the timing a little and to increase fuel enrichment and octane. These tips are critical when adding forced induction (turbos, superchargers or Nitrous kits), and failure to address ALL of these areas will virtually guarantee engine damage.

An engine that has poor oil control can sometimes mask the symptom temporarily by running a slightly hotter spark plug. While this is a “Band-Aid” approach, it is one of the only examples of when and why one would select a hotter spark plug.

[For NGK plugs, the higher the number, the cooler the plug, so a BP7ES plug is cooler than a BP6ES. The NGK installation guide recommends the following NGK plugs for these typical Alfas, Ed.]

   '67 Duetto (carbs)   BP7ES
   '78 Spider (Spica)   BPR6ES, BPR7ES
   '88 Spider (Bosch)   BPR7ES
   '88 Milano (2.5L)    BPR6ES
   '88 Milano (3.0L)    BPR7ES
   '91 164B,L (3.0L)    BPR7ES

Using high power ignition systems

Many of the more popular aftermarket ignition systems are of the capacitive discharge type. They store voltage, or accumulate it, until a point at which a trigger signal allows release of this more powerful spark. Companies like Mallory, MSD, Crane and Accel, to name a few, offer such systems.

They affect spark plugs in that they allow the gaps to be opened up to take advantage of the increased capacity. The theory is that the larger and the more intense the spark you are able to present to the air/fuel mixture, the more likely you will be to burn more fuel, and hence the more power you will make.

We encourage the use of such systems, but only on modified or older non-computer controlled vehicles.

In reality, computer controlled vehicles do such a good job of igniting the air/fuel mixture (as evidence by the ultra-low emissions), added ignition capacity would do little to burn more fuel since the stock configuration is doing such a good job. Older non-computer controlled vehicles or those that have been modified with higher compression or boosted (nitrous, turbo, supercharged) engines can certainly take advantage of a more powerful ignition system.

Indexing

This is for racers only!!

Indexing refers to a process whereby auxiliary washers of varying thickness are placed under the spark plug’s shoulder so that when the spark plug is tightened, the gap will pointed in the desired direction.

However, without running an engine on a dyno, it is impossible to gauge which type of indexing works best in your engine...while most engines like the spark plug’s gap open to the intake valve, there are still other combinations that make more power with the gap pointed toward the exhaust valve.

In any case, engines with indexed spark plugs will typically make only a few more horsepower, typically less than 1% of total engine output...for a 500hp engine, you’d be lucky to get 5hp...while there are exceptions, the bottom line is that without a dyno, gauging success will be difficult.

Using “Racing” Spark Plugs

Be cautious!! In reality, most “racing” spark plugs are just colder heat ranges of the street versions of the street spark plug...they don’t provide any more voltage to the spark plug tip!! Their internal construction is no different (in NGK’s case, as all of our spark plugs must conform to the same level of quality controls) than most standard spark plugs.

There are some exceptions, though. Extremely high compression cars or those running exotic fuels will have different spark plug requirements and hence NGK makes spark plugs that are well-suited for these requirements...they are classified as “specialized spark plugs for racing applications”. Some are built with precious metal alloy tips for greater durability or for their ability to fire in denser or leaner air/fuel mixtures.

However, installing the same spark plugs Kenny Bernstein uses in his 300+mph Top Fuel car (running nitromethane at a 2:1 air/fuel ratio and over 20:1 dynamic compression) in your basically stock Honda Civic (running 15:1 a/f ratios with roughly 9.5:1 compression) will do nothing for you!! In fact, since Kenny’s plugs are fully 4 heat ranges colder, they’d foul out in your Honda in just a few minutes.

NGK as a company tries to stay clear of saying that a racing spark plug (or ANY spark plug) will give you large gains in horsepower...while certain spark plugs are better suited to certain applications (and we’re happy to counsel you in the right direction) we try to tell people that are looking to “screw in” some cheap horsepower that, in most cases, spark plugs are not the answer.

To be blunt, when experienced tuners build race motors, they select their spark plugs for different reasons: to remove heat more efficiently, provide sufficient spark to completely light all the air/fuel mixture, and to survive the added stresses placed upon a high performance engine’s spark plugs, and to achieve optimum piston-to-plug clearance.

Some of these “specialized racing plugs” are made with precious metal alloy center/ground electrodes or fine wire tips or retracted-nose insulators...again, these features do not necessarily mean that the spark plug will allow the engine to make more power, but these features are what allow the spark plug to survive in these tortuous conditions....most racers know screwing in a new set of spark plugs will not magically “unlock” hidden horsepower.

Good morning,

I just thought I'd share an experience I had with a vendor.

I wanted to have the fuel injectors in my 164L reconditioned so I sent them off to a place in Michigan called Cruzin Performance (http://www.cruzinperformance.com/)

The fellas name is Rich Jensen.  He rebuilt the injectors for about $16 each.  He replaces pintle caps, seals, o-rings, screens, etc as needed, cleans them, flows test them and then sends you a detailed test report.

He did a great job with quick turnaround of the injectors.  Here's a copy of test results on a batch of 4 injectors I sent to him.  I would recommend his service in lieu of purchasing new (and expensive) injectors.

                       chris galardi (chrisgalardi@yahoo.com)